Wines of India || Indian Wines and Wineries, History || Wine Information

India's Wine Perspective

Wine may have originated in India in the 13th century BCE, according to historical and literary sources, but the modern Indian wine industry dates back to the early 1980s, when two pioneering industrialists and businessmen, Shymarao Chowgule and Kanwal Grover, set out to produce their own wines on Indian soil. Sula Vineyards, India's largest wine producer today, entered the market in 2000, symbolising the optimism of the period. In 2001, Maharashtra became the first state in India to implement a wine policy, resulting in the establishment of numerous new wineries. Three more states implemented wine policies: Madhya Pradesh and Tamil Nadu in 2006, and Karnataka in 2007.

The 2007-2008 financial crisis led numerous wineries to declare bankruptcy, including Chowgule's Chateau Indage, the largest winery at the time and best renowned for its Omar Khayyam sparkling wine. New substantial winery projects began in 2007, including Alpine Wineries, Fratelli Wines, Charosa Winery, Four Seasons, KRSMA Estates, Vallonné Vineyards, and SDU Winery. Pernod Ricard, Diageo, and Moët Hennessy are among the multinational beverage companies that have established a presence in India. Despite the obvious hurdles that the small Indian wine sector faces, financial investors have stepped in. The Indian Grape Processing Board was established in 2009, and India joined the OIV in 2011.

Indian Wine region and Climate

The Indian subcontinent is a wide expanse of land in South-East Asia with a diverse climate ranging from Jammu and Kashmir in the north to Tamil Nadu and Kerala in the south. The majority of wine production, however, occurs in two south Indian states: Maharashtra and Karnataka. As a result, the majority of Bordeaux's vineyards, which total 2,500 hectares (6,178 acres), are subtropical, with two different seasons: the wet summer months and the cooler dry winter.

Between May and September, the south-westerly monsoon produces the vast majority of the annual precipitation, followed by high temperatures that frequently exceed 30°C and, in some regions, approach 50°C. During the winter, there is usually little rain, and temperatures range from 35°C during the day to 15°C at night, providing much-needed diurnal temperature variety.

This has two ramifications for the vineyard. One is the absence of dormancy in the vines, which resume their growing cycle as soon as they are clipped after harvest. As a result, quality-conscious producers prune twice a year: after harvest in May and immediately following the monsoon, from early August to late September, before the new growing season begins. The other aspect is the reverse cycle of temperatures during the winter period: temperatures fall from the start of the growth season, reaching their lowest point in December, before rising again as the grapes ripen.

However, regional variance can be detected. The distance between the Equator in the south and the Arabian Sea in the west influences rainfall. For example, in Nashik, one of India's eight wine regions and home to the majority of commercially significant producers, the Western Ghats break the monsoon clouds first, dumping 3,500mm of rain in the Igatpuri area while the more inland sub-regions receive only 500mm. Nashik, India's wine capital, is also a wine tourism hotspot due to its convenient location: it is only 190 kilometres, or a 3.5-hour drive, north-east of metropolitan Mumbai and is one of the four centres for the Kumbh Mela, a mass pilgrimage held every twelve years in which Hindus congregate to cleanse themselves of sin in the river.

Altitude influences both average temperatures and the magnitude of diurnal temperature variation. Bangalore and the South, a wine area in Karnataka with an average altitude of 950m, has more temperate summer temperatures than Nashik, which is at 600m. As a result, the temperature difference between day and night decreases slightly, affecting grape ripening.

Indian grape varieties and different Wine styles

Though Bangalore Blue and Bangalore Purple are native Indian grapes, they are V vinifera and V labrusca hybrids with a very foxy flavour, making them only appropriate for sub-entry-level wine.

Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Shiraz are the four most widely produced kinds. This could be attributed to the influence of foreign advisors, such as Michel Rolland of Bordeaux, as well as the styles in which they can be manufactured. Chenin Blanc's adaptability in terms of residual sugar suits the Indian palate, as does the fruit-forward character of the Cabernet-Shiraz combination, which is considered India's quintessential red blend with luscious fruits and velvety tannins.

The remaining grapes planted in India are divided into three groups based on their origin: French, Italian, and other kinds. These include Viognier and Malbec, all of which have enormous promise, as well as Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, both of which struggle to produce commercially acceptable volumes, despite the fact that Chardonnay is increasingly being produced with good results. Sangiovese is growing more popular among Italian grape types, as are Riesling and Tempranillo.

There are stylistic differences between Indian and Western wine styles. The former includes constantly off-dry wines, which suit the spicy nature of Indian cuisine; Indian port, which is a problematic category for naming and quality reasons, but quenches the thirst of the low-income consumer for sweetness and alcohol; wine coolers, which are designed to convert beer drinkers; and sub-entry-level wines, which may be technically impeccable but are completely unsuitable for the Western palate.

The Western styles span from dry still wines to pink and effervescent to sweet, late-harvest, vin de passerillage, and santo. Premium wines are frequently barrel aged, with American oak being the most prevalent, while French oak is also used. Bottle-fermented sparkling wine, often made from Chenin Blanc or Shiraz for the rosé, is becoming increasingly popular among Indians. These Western-style wines are receiving an increasing number of plaudits at international wine competitions and should be sought out if you want to sample Indian wines.

What is Beaujolais Nouveau? || Wine Information || Wine Region

For decades, wine lovers have marked the third Thursday of November on their calendars as the day le Beaujolais Nouveau est arrivé! This young, vivacious red wine, once a global phenomenon, went out of style after its dazzling glory. However, it is making a subtle reappearance. Beaujolais Nouveau is gaining popularity again, thanks to a revived respect for wines that speak to their roots. But what's sparked this fresh interest? And how does a wine so steeped in tradition remain appealing to modern drinkers?

What is Beaujolais Nouveau?

Beaujolais Nouveau originated in the early twentieth century amid the undulating hills of eastern France's Beaujolais region. Traditionally, winemakers would ferment Gamay grapes shortly after harvest to produce a light, fresh wine. This early bottling, termed as "vin de primeur," commemorated the conclusion of grape-picking season. The wine was not meant to be aged; instead, it was drank locally by labourers and residents of the surrounding villages, providing a first taste of the harvest season.

In the 1950s, French legislation officially permitted the early distribution of these wines, and by the 1970s, the third Thursday in November had become a standardised date for their release. This timing, just before the holiday season, made it a festive tradition throughout France and beyond.

Beaujolais Nouveau became a global phenomenon in the 1970s and 1980s, largely to the marketing talent of Georges Duboeuf, one of the region's most recognised growers. His extravagant advertising, which used the classic tagline "Le Beaujolais Nouveau est arrivé!" ("The Beaujolais Nouveau has arrived!"), drew international notice. Cities such as London, New York, and Tokyo enthusiastically welcomed the wine, holding vibrant festivities, parades, and even races to deliver the first bottles to crucial markets. However, by the early 2000s, oversaturation and a preference for quantity over quality had reduced its appeal.

Why United Kingdom loves Beajolais Nouveau?

The UK has historically played an important role in the Beaujolais Nouveau tale. During its heyday in the 1980s, Nouveau fever spread across Britain, with wine enthusiasts anxiously anticipating the first bottles. London became a focal point for festivities, with pubs and restaurants holding themed parties to commemorate the wine's launch.

One of the most unusual traditions was the "Beaujolais Run," a race to convey the first bottles of Nouveau from France to the United Kingdom. Participants would race from Beaujolais to different sites in England, frequently driving antique vehicles or motorbikes. This unofficial tournament caught the wine's spirit: lively, swift, and light-hearted. However, when oversaturation and poor quality became problems in the 1990s, excitement dwindled. For a time, it appeared like the celebration would slip into obscurity.

Why Beaujolais Nouveau making comeback?

Beaujolais Nouveau is currently experiencing a rebirth, owing to changes in consumer tastes and a broader trend that values authenticity, craftsmanship, and a return to origins. Key elements include:

• Craftsmanship over commercialisation: Many producers have reduced bulk production in favour of smaller quantities that accentuate the Gamay grape's inherent flavour and the region's terroir.
• A taste for tradition: In an era of artisanal everything, Beaujolais Nouveau's decades-long history and seasonal release feel more relevant than ever.
• Social media buzz: Beaujolais Nouveau's brilliant hues and joyful spirit are ideal for social sharing, enticing newer generations of wine enthusiasts.
• Food and wine pairing trends: Its low tannins, sharp acidity, and red berry overtones make it an excellent partner with everything from charcuterie boards to heavy fall foods.

What about the greater Beaujolais region? 

While Nouveau may be the region's main draw in November, the Beaujolais crus are gaining popularity year-round. These eleven towns, which include Morgon, Fleurie, and Moulin-à-Vent, create wines ranging from delicate and flowery to powerful and earthy, with several having the character to age well.

How will you celebrate Beaujolais Nouveau today?

Whether you're returning to an old tradition or experiencing it for the first time, here's how to make the most of Beaujolais Nouveau Day:

• Raise a glass on release day: On November's third Thursday, join the global celebration by drinking a glass of Nouveau. Many wine bars and restaurants hold special events, so look into what's happening around you. 
• Serve it correctly: Beaujolais Nouveau is often served slightly chilled (about 12-14°C) to showcase its lively, fruity flavour.  
• Pair it with seasonal foods: Its light body and fresh acidity make it an excellent complement to roasted turkey, creamy cheeses, and pumpkin-based recipes. 
• Discover The Crus: Go beyond Nouveau to discover the region's more structured and age-worthy wines. 

The things you should know about Bernkastel || Vineyards Overview || German Wine Region

The vineyards in Germany's middle Mosel are among the most stunning in the world. If you stand on the Bernkastel bridge and stare northwest, you'll notice what looks to be a 200m-high wall of vines on your right, spanning down the river as far as the eye can see. If you glance towards the most famous vineyard of them all, the Bernkasteler Doktor, it appears to hang over the town itself. The quality of the Riesling wine produced by this and neighbouring vineyards is widely recognised.

What so special about Bernkastel site?

To begin, it has a south-facing slope in the northern hemisphere, which ensures maximum radiation interception, especially when paired with the steep slope. Slopes are particularly useful for radiation interception at high latitudes more than 47⁰ and when temperature is limited: at about 50⁰N and a typical July temperature of roughly 18⁰C, the middle Mosel met both conditions.

Second, the vines stretched from mid-slope to the crest of the hill, providing ideal thermal qualities. Furthermore, good air drainage considerably lowers the risk of frost. The best vineyards in Germany are next to rivers because the sides of the twisting river valleys give steep slopes with optimum thermal qualities; nevertheless, the temperature moderating impact of the water and the reflection of light from the river are likely to be the only benefits.

Another notable feature of the location is the soil, which has a huge amount of slate on the surface. The soil is well-drained, so it heats up quickly in the spring. Surface stone is especially important since it reduces the likelihood of erosion. The stones absorb heat throughout the day and re-radiate at night, resulting in less temperature change. Surface stones can function as mulch, resulting in less water loss. Stony soils often have low to moderate fertility, which improves the chances of vine balance. Perhaps the proximity to the town itself provides some thermal benefit.

‘Imaginative tasters detect the smoke from bernkastel’s chimneys in the flavor of the Docktor.’

-          Hugh Johnson.

While this sounds wonderful there is a downside. The expense of running these vineyards is considerable, as everything must be done by hand. The sole mechanized process is the aerial spraying of fungicides, which is normally done with a helicopter. However, it seems possible that this activity will have to be halted because the residents of the town are opposed to its usage. It's difficult to believe that pesticides were sprayed on vineyards and, mistakenly, the town below until recently. The very existence of traditional vineyards on steep slopes, with their high input of labour, is under jeopardy as labour prices rise and more limitations are imposed on aerial spraying, pesticides, herbicides, and fertiliser use. The German government, with the backing of the people, is particularly concerned about environmental concerns.

Vines have been planted in this region since Roman times, and the remnants of a Roman winery were recently discovered not far from Bernkastel. In 1989, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer's area was 55% Riesling, 22% Muller-Thurgau, and 9% Elbling. The average yield for the entire region in the 1980s was 20 tonnes per hectare. Riesling is grown on the better locations, while Muller-Thurgau on the poorest.

In classic middle Mosel vineyards, vines are planted 1.3m*1.3m and grown on single stakes up to 2.7m tall. Pruning is done on 2 to 4 canes with up to 12 nodes each; the canes are arched and tried to the base of the trunk. Selected shoots (as few as four per vine) are trained and staked, while surplus shoots are eliminated. Standard techniques include removing leaves from surrounding bunches and tripping shoots. The steepness of the slope prevented most mechanical activities. A high majority of small producers (less than one hectare) cultivate their vineyards part-time.

According to Dr. Wolf Englert of the Institute for Plant Protection in Bernkastel-Kues, there is minimal phylloxera in this location. The soil appears to be unsuitable, and most vines are produced from their own roots. The most often utilised rootstocks are 3309, SO4, and 5BB.

New vineyards have been planted in recent years on mild slopes or level land, and they are trellised with rows 2.0m to 2.7m wide. The vertically shoot-oriented trellis is similar to those seen in other regions of Germany, with two pairs of adjustable leaf wires. These vineyards can be mechanically harvested and maybe pruned, though the latter is very uncommon in Germany at the moment.

Reference:

DR PETER DRY is a senior lecturer in the Department of Horticulture. Viticulture and Oenology, The University of Adelaide and is based at the Waite Campus.

  

Wine and Asia || Asian wines and region || Wine Region

    Asia's expanding wine sector is quickly earning worldwide reputation, because to its different climates, innovative winemaking techniques, and incorporation into local cultures. This blog delves at the diverse range of wines made across the continent, from grape wines in Ningxia, China, and Nashik, India, to traditional rice wines such as Japanese sake and Chinese huangjiu. It highlights significant wine locations such as Shangri-La County in Yunnan and Yamanashi Prefecture in Japan, as well as top producers such as Ao Yun and Château Mercian. It also provides insights into unique accommodation experiences for wine connoisseurs. The site also digs into prominent Asian wine brands such as Chateau Changyu and Sula Vineyards, highlighting the dynamic and fascinating rise of Asia's wine culture. This research will help readers appreciate the unique and high-quality wines emerging from Asia, which represent the region's varied terroirs and winemaking traditions.

Things to Know About Asian Wines

    Asia has many different climates and soils suitable for growing grapes. From Japan's cool mountains to China's sunny valleys, the weather and land affect the taste and quality of the wines produced. Asian winemakers mix traditional methods with modern technology, creating unique wines. They adapt Western winemaking techniques to local conditions, making innovative and distinctive wines. Wine is becoming a part of local cuisines and traditions in Asia. For example, Japanese wines are often paired with sushi, while Chinese wines are popular at traditional banquets.

Types of Asian Wines

    Asian wines include grape wines, rice wines, and fruit wines. Grape wines, made from various grape varieties, include red, white, rosé, and sparkling wines. Regions like Ningxia in China and Nashik in India are known for their high-quality grape wines. Rice wines, traditional in many Asian cultures, include Japanese sake, Chinese huangjiu, and Korean makgeolli, made from fermented rice and varying in sweetness and alcohol content. Fruit wines, made from local fruits like plums, lychees, and peaches, are often sweet and enjoyed as dessert wines or aperitifs.

Examples of Asian Wines

    Japanese Koshu, made from the Koshu grape, is light, crisp, and aromatic, pairing well with seafood. China produces a lot of Cabernet Sauvignon, with some regions making wines as good as those from more established wine countries. Indian Sula Chenin Blanc is known for its tropical fruit flavors and refreshing acidity, a highlight of India’s wine offerings.

Best Asian Wines

    Chateau Changyu Moser XV, a top winery in Ningxia, China, is known for high-quality red wines, especially Cabernet Sauvignon. Grace Winery Koshu in Japan is famous for its elegant and pure Koshu wines, which have received international praise. Sula Vineyards Dindori Reserve Shiraz from India is known for its rich, full-bodied taste and multiple awards.

Asian Wine Regions, Producers, and Where to Stay

    Shangri-La County, Yunnan, Chinese Mainland is a top producer of quality wines, despite being more commonly known for tea production. The region's high altitude and ample sunshine make it ideal for growing Cabernet Sauvignon. The top wine producer here is Ao Yun, a Moet Hennessy brand producing expensive and high-quality wines. Banyan Tree Ringha, a hotel in old tea plantations, is the only Chinese property on the National Geographic Unique Lodges of the World list.

    Yantai, Shandong, Chinese Mainland is home to China’s oldest and largest wine region. Changyu, established in 1892, is the country’s oldest winery, offering a wine museum and tasting area. Treaty Port Vineyards offers lodging in a Scottish castle-style building with various themed rooms and views.

    Yamanashi Prefecture, Japan, located at the foot of Mount Fuji, is Japan’s premier wine-growing hub. Château Mercian, the best winemaker in the region, produces high-quality wines from Koshu, Muscat Bailey-A, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Onsenji Yumedono ryokan offers traditional architecture, calming gardens, and private hot spring baths in each room.

   Khao Yai, Thailand, located two hours north of Bangkok, is home to many of the country’s top vineyards. GranMonte, an award-winning boutique winery, produces wines from Chenin Blanc and Viognier in a tropical environment. GranMonte offers European-style guesthouses among the vines, providing a quiet break from city life.

    Bali, Indonesia, has challenging tropical conditions for wine production but has found success with indigenous grape varietals. Hatten Wines is known for quality wines like Pino di Bali and Tunjung. Kejora Suites, a boutique hotel near the beach and Hatten Wines’ Cellardoor, offers affordable suites with a pool and gardens.

Asian Wine Brands

    Chateau Changyu (China), established in 1892, is one of China’s oldest and most respected wine brands. Grace Winery (Japan) is known for pioneering the Koshu grape and producing some of Japan’s finest wines. Sula Vineyards (India) is a leading wine producer in India, known for its innovative approach and diverse wines. Great Wall (China) is one of China's largest wine producers, offering a wide variety of wines. Four Seasons Vineyards (India) is a prominent Indian winery producing popular wines domestically and internationally. Nikko Vino (Japan) specializes in both domestic and imported grape varieties, producing wines reflecting Japanese terroir and craftsmanship.

FAQ’s

Are there any Asian wines?

    Yes, there are several Asian wines, and the wine industry in Asia has been growing significantly over the past few decades. Countries such as China, Japan, India, and South Korea are producing a wide variety of wines. China, in particular, has become a major player in the global wine market, with regions like Ningxia and Shandong gaining international recognition for their quality wines. Japan is known for its Koshu grape wines, and India has established a burgeoning wine industry with notable regions like Nashik and Bangalore. Additionally, countries like Thailand and Vietnam are also exploring viticulture and producing wines that are gaining attention.

What is traditional Chinese wine?

    Traditional Chinese wine, often referred to as "huangjiu" (yellow wine), is a type of fermented alcoholic beverage made from grains such as rice, millet, or wheat. Unlike Western-style wines made from grapes, huangjiu is brewed through a fermentation process that involves saccharification (conversion of starches to sugars) and fermentation. It is typically aged, which imparts a rich, complex flavor profile. Popular varieties include Shaoxing wine, which is widely used in cooking and ceremonial occasions. In addition to huangjiu, China also produces "baijiu," a distilled spirit, and has a growing industry for grape-based wines.

Is rice wine alcoholic?

    Yes, rice wine is alcoholic. It is a traditional alcoholic beverage in many Asian cultures, particularly in China, Japan, Korea, and Vietnam. The alcohol content of rice wine can vary widely, typically ranging from about 10% to 25% alcohol by volume (ABV), depending on the specific type and production method. For example, sake, a Japanese rice wine, usually has an ABV of around 15-20%. Rice wines are made by fermenting polished rice, and the resulting beverage can be enjoyed in a variety of styles, from sweet to dry, and can be served hot or cold.

Does Asia produce wine?

    Absolutely, Asia produces a significant and increasing amount of wine. While traditionally not known as a wine-producing region, several Asian countries have made substantial investments in viticulture and winemaking. China is now one of the largest wine producers in the world, with numerous vineyards and wineries emerging, particularly in regions like Ningxia, Shandong, and Xinjiang. Japan is known for its unique Koshu grape wines, and India has developed a vibrant wine industry with regions like Nashik and Bangalore producing high-quality wines. Additionally, countries such as South Korea, Thailand, and Vietnam are also entering the wine market, producing wines that reflect their unique terroirs and cultural influences. This diversification and growth in Asian wine production have added exciting new dimensions to the global wine landscape.

    Asia's wine business exemplifies the region's inventiveness, adaptability, and rising competence in viticulture. From the chilly, mountainous vineyards of Japan to the high-altitude terroirs of China's Yunnan region, and from the sun-drenched valleys of India to the tropical vines of Bali, Asian winemakers are creating one-of-a-kind wines that reflect the complexity and richness of their surroundings.

    As the demand for high-quality wine grows across Asia and beyond, local producers are rising to the challenge, merging ancient traditions with new technology to create wines that are not only competitive on a global scale, but also unique in their own right. The success stories of wineries like Ao Yun in Shangri-La County, Changyu in Yantai, Château Mercian in Yamanashi, GranMonte in Khao Yai, and Hatten Wines in Bali demonstrate the potential and promise of Asian viticulture.

    Furthermore, incorporating wine into Asian culinary traditions enriches the eating experience by improving the tastes of local cuisines and providing new methods for people to enjoy both food and wine. Wine tourism is also on the increase, with scenic vineyards and unusual housing options luring wine fans from all over the world to Asia's emerging wine areas.

    Finally, the future of Asian wine appears really promising. As additional vineyards are planted and winemakers improve their skills, we should expect to see even more fascinating discoveries and world-class wines emerge from this vibrant region of the world. Whether you're an experienced wine enthusiast or a curious newbie, Asia's rich and expanding wine culture has something for everyone to discover and appreciate. So, raise a glass to Asia's wine renaissance, which promises to be as rich and diverse as the wines themselves.

Wine and War: The Resilience and Ingenuity of French Winemakers during WWII

As World War II loomed on the horizon, French winemakers faced an unprecedented dual battle: against the destructive forces of war and the harshness of nature. The late summer of 1939, marked by relentless rain, threatened the quality of the harvest, while the political tensions in Europe cast a long shadow over the wine industry. This article explores the extraordinary measures taken by French winemakers to protect their heritage, the impact of war on the vineyards, and the resilient spirit that helped them endure.

The Gathering Storm

In 1939, winemakers attended the International Congress of the Vine and Wine in Germany amidst growing anxieties. Hitler's aggressive annexations and the formation of military alliances heightened tensions, overshadowing discussions about the weather and its impact on the vines. The winegrowers' fears were not just about politics but also about the adverse weather that threatened their harvest.

Ingenious Preservation Efforts

In Burgundy, Maurice Drouhin, a prominent figure in the wine industry, took extraordinary steps to protect his invaluable Romanée-Conti wines. Utilizing a centuries-old cellar, Maurice built a secret wall to hide his finest bottles, even enlisting his children to gather spiders to create an illusion of age and abandonment.

Similarly, in Champagne, Marie-Louise de Nonancourt of Laurent-Perrier hid her wine stock behind a concealed wall and placed a statue of the Virgin Mary within it, symbolizing her faith and hope for divine protection. This act highlighted the deep cultural and religious connections intertwined with the wine industry in France.

The Hugel Family: A Microcosm of Alsace's Turmoil

The Hugel family of Alsace faced unique challenges due to the region's history of fluctuating control between France and Germany. Johnny Hugel's remark, "We are specialists in war and wine," encapsulated their resilient spirit. The Hugels, whose nationality shifted multiple times due to geopolitical changes, epitomized the enduring strength of the Alsatian people and their commitment to winemaking.

The Harvest of 1939: A Foreboding Symbol

As the harvest of 1939 began, it was clear that nature itself was unkind. In Burgundy, snow blanketed the vineyards, while Bordeaux suffered from excessive rain, leading to a crop so poor that one grower described it as "dishwater." Champagne was not spared either; many vineyards lay dormant as the war disrupted normal operations, leaving inexperienced women and children to gather the meager, unripe grapes. Alsace saw its best wine barely reaching 8.4 degrees alcohol, far below the norm.

This disastrous harvest seemed to fulfill an old peasant legend: a bad wine crop heralds the onset of war, and only a fine crop marks its end. As Europe plunged into conflict, French winemakers braced themselves for the impact on their livelihoods and legacies.

The Phony War and Its Aftermath

Despite the declaration of war on September 3, 1939, an eerie calm persisted, known as the Phony War. French forces hunkered down behind the Maginot Line, a fortification they believed impenetrable. This period of inactivity belied the underlying dread of impending conflict. Maurice Drouhin and others in the wine industry were under no illusion; they prepared as best they could, recalling the immense human and economic toll of World War I.

The efforts of these winemakers to protect their stocks were not just about preserving business assets. They were acts of defiance and hope, ensuring that their cultural heritage would endure through the darkest times. These stories of resilience highlight the intricate relationship between wine, identity, and survival in the face of war.

The Broader Impact of War on French Winemaking

The war significantly disrupted the wine industry. German forces, upon occupation, imposed strict controls and requisitioned large quantities of wine. Winemakers faced shortages of labor and materials, further complicating production. Yet, they adapted by producing wine under difficult conditions, maintaining a semblance of normalcy and continuity.

Throughout the war, stories of survival and ingenuity emerged from various regions:

• In the Loire Valley, winemakers concealed their best wines behind false walls and underground passages.
• In Bordeaux, some winemakers shipped their finest wines to safe locations abroad.
• In occupied zones, clandestine operations ensured that wine continued to be produced and distributed.

The Role of Wine in French Identity

Wine in France is more than a commodity; it is a symbol of national identity and cultural heritage. The efforts to protect and preserve wine during the war underscored its significance in French life. These winemakers' stories reflect the broader narrative of French resilience and the unwavering spirit to protect their cultural heritage against all odds.

The Legacy of Resilience

As the war drew to a close, the stories of French winemakers who risked everything to protect their vineyards and heritage became legendary. These men and women, through their ingenuity and tenacity, not only preserved the essence of French wine but also the spirit of a nation under siege. Their vineyards, once silent witnesses to the horrors of war, bloomed again, symbolizing renewal and hope.

Today, as we savor the rich flavors and history in each bottle of French wine, we remember the courage and resilience that ensured its survival. The vineyards of France stand as a testament to the indomitable human spirit, a reminder that even in the darkest times, passion and perseverance can lead to triumph. The legacy of these winemakers is not just in the wine they preserved but in the enduring spirit of France itself, a spirit that continues to inspire and captivate the world.

The things you should know about Chianti-Classico || Geography, Viticulture & Enology || Italian Wine Region

 

Tuscany: the word alone conjures up pictures of a timeless environment with wooded hills, cypress trees, villas, and old farmhouses. A visitor to the region cannot help but be captivated by the ambiance. As Oz Clarke so well stated, "You can't go to Tuscany without wanting to be more like the Tuscans." Chianti Classico, the most famous wine area in Italy, is located in the heart of Tuscany, between the historic towns of Florence and Siena. In reality, Chianti Montalbano, Chianti Colli Fiorenti, Chianti Rufina, Colli Senesi, Colline Pisane, and Colli Aretini are the other six Tuscan wine regions that can claim the name Chiant. However, it is Chianti Classico, closely followed by Chianti Rufina, that produces the reputed wines.

Geography

The Chianti Classico area spans 40 kilometers north to south and 25 kilometers west to east. The steep topography is far from viticultural monoculture, with vineyards mixed with woodlands, olive orchards, sunflowers, and other vegetation, accounting for just 10% of the total surface area. One explanation is that the principal grape varietals can only mature adequately in the ideal locations. The hills give favorable perspectives and cooling winds; for example, Sangiovese is thought to require a southerly exposure for dependable ripening.

Wine has been produced in the region for centuries; the word Chianti, which refers to red wine, was first attested in 1404. The first effort at territorial delimitation occurred in 1716. Prior to the 1960s, vineyards as we know them were uncommon; grapes were intermingled with other crops, perhaps in single rows between plots used for other crops. Massive replanting occurred in the 1960s and 1970s. There are 7,000 hectares of vineyards with Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) designation.

Sangiovese, like Pinot Noir, is less pigmented than many other red wine varieties--it contains less acylated anthocyanins--and Canaiolo may have been included in the mix to boost color. Malvasia Bianca, on the other hand, is supposed to enhance scent and soften the palate. Also, because the other traditional red types mature before Sangiovese, the wine had more body in weak years. Today, Cabernet Sauvignon or Shiraz are more likely to perform this function than Canaiolo. Nonetheless, some producers may contend that Canaiolo is necessary for the traditional flavor of a Chianti Classico.

Because of the undulating geography, the region's climate is quite varied. Temperature is strongly influenced by altitude, and vineyards may be found at elevations ranging from 250 to 600 meters. However, Sangiovese is thought to mature best when cultivated at elevations lower than 380 meters. Summers are hot, but winters are frigid; for example, MJT is 23.1°C (range from 24.0°C at 50 m to 22.0°C at 450 m), and CTL3 is 17.7°C. Autumn rainfall is critical: there is a negative correlation between vintage rating and September rainfall. The average rainfall throughout the growth season (April to October) is 452 mm, with 79 mm in September. Hail and frost are the main issues. The most favoured soils are the calcareous marls (galestro), principally found in the central part of the region. In the north, clay soils are more common.

Viticulture and Enology

Poggio Amorelli, winery of Chianti region

Row x vine spacing is 1.7 to 2.5 m x 0.75 to 1.0 m, with newer vineyards having tighter spacings. The trellis is a VSP type, with a fruiting wire at 50 to 70 cm, two pairs of moveable foliage wires, and a single fixed foliage wire at the top of the post (110 to 140 cm). Sangiovese is often grown to a unilateral cordon and clipped to single-node spurs. Pruning is typically done by hand, however mechanical pre-pruning may be utilized, and results in the retention of just 3 to 4 spurs per vine. In high-yielding vineyards, all varietals may be planted with at least two arching canes per vine. Shoot density can be as low as 5–6 per lineal m. Bunch thinning near to veraison is common technique to achieve maturation before the autumn rains. Irrigation is not allowed on bearing vines. Budburst occurs in early to mid-April, and harvest usually begins in mid-September (at low elevations) or early October. On deep soils, the most common rootstocks are 420A and 3309, while 110 Richter and 779 Paulsen are used on dry, calcareous soils.

Chianti Classico wines must have a minimum alcohol content of 12% (12.5% for Riserva) and a yield of no more than 8.5 t/ha (or 3 kilograms per vine). Furthermore, five years after planting a vineyard, its I grapes can be utilized for Chianti Classico. Riverva wine (taken from the finest vineyards) accounts for about 20% of total output and is matured in big and small oak barrels with a life expectancy of ten years or longer.

Wine Tasting in Chianti-Classico

Those traveling in Siena or Florence (or the provinces of Siena and Florence) have easy access to the Chianti Classico region's farms and vineyards. The following is a list of well-known wineries/wine stores you may visit directly with your own (or rental) car/bike.

VITICCIO (Greve in Chianti)

Greve in Chianti

Wine tastings are available every day of the week at the Viticcio winery estate and may be scheduled by appointment. Simply call to book a visit at a time that works best for you.

This is a family-run winery, therefore you'll most likely be guided by a family member on your adventure into the world of wine, beginning with their vines and progressing to the winery before tasting their wines, which you can then purchase. Visit their official website for additional information on wine tastings and excursions.

CHIANTI CLASSICO, MONTALCINO & MONTEPULCIANO

Chianti Classico

If you're feeling brave and want to see all three lovely Tuscan wine districts in one day, we recommend taking a guided trip like this small group one (max 8 people). You'll enjoy the journey to Greve, Castellina, and then via Monteriggioni, Montalcino, and Montepulciano, as well as the wines and a lovely lunch, without having to worry about driving. It's a long day, but you'll see a lot of Tuscany in one day dedicated to the region's most famous wineries.

CASTELLO DI BROLIO (Gaiole in Chianti)

Castello Di Brolio

The Enoteca del Barone Ricasoli is accessible for tastings, both individually and in groups, by reservation. In addition to tasting and purchasing Ricasoli wines, the staff enoteca may also sell excellent items from the region, such as honey and olive oil.

If you don't have a vehicle or don't want to drive while tasting wine, you can still visit Castello di Brolio from Siena on this guided trip, which also includes lunch and a visit to a third vineyard in the afternoon, as well as time in a neighboring town. It's a full-day tour (8 hours).

THE CASA DEL CHIANTI CLASSICO (Radda in Chianti)

Radda in Chianti

The "Casa del Chianti Classico" is the first "house of wine" for the Chianti Classico Wine Consortium, having opened in June 2014 in Radda in Chianti. The "Casa Chianti Classico" allows you to taste and buy from the world's greatest selection of Chianti Classico labels, as well as a terrace with a view to enjoy a lunch or supper and various wine-related events, courses, and exhibits. Unfortunately, the most of activities take place during the summer, although the wine shop and patio are open all year. Visit the official website to learn more.

References:

Some of the information in this article was provided by Christian Maurer (Isole e Olena) and Gionata Pulignani (Castello di Fonterutoli).

Clarke, O. (1995) Oz Clarke's Wine Atlas (Websters International Publishers: London)

Nesto, Bill; Di Savino, Frances (2016). Chianti Classico: The Search for Tuscany's Noblest Wine. University of California Press.

Flower, Raymond (2012) [1978]. Chianti: The Land, the People and the Wine. Garrett County Press.

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Saint-Émilion || Bordeaux Wine Region || France

 

An aerial view of Saint-Émilion

St-ÉMILION is a charming small town on the right bank of the Dordogne River, 30 kilometers east of Bordeaux. The town was later formed in the Middle Ages on the limestone outcrop where it is reported that a hermit by the name of Emilion resided in a cave in the eighth century. This is where the town's beginnings may be discovered. Known as the Libournais, St-Émilion is one of three wine-producing areas north of the Dordogne (the other two districts being Pomerol and Fronsac). Libourne, a port on the Dordogne that is about 5 km west of St-Émilion, serves as the headquarters for the shipping businesses that carry Fronsac, Pomerol, and St-Émilion wines. The Dordogne merges with the Garonne River downstream of the city of Bordeaux to form the Gironde River.

Among the Bordeaux appellations, Medoc is arguably the most well-known today, yet St-Émilion was a wine area even before Medoc. The borders of St-Émilion were established in 1289 by Edward, King of England and Duke of Gascony, and they have remained essentially the same to this day. With a few notable exceptions, the St-Émilion producers did not gain international recognition until the Second World War.

Barely 5,200 hectares, or 5% of Bordeaux's total vineyard area, make up St-Émilion. It is barely 10 km long from east to west and 3.5 km broad at its widest point from north to south. There are many of tiny farmers with an average vineyard size of less than 5 ha, as opposed to the numerous big estates found in the Médoc. However, the percentage of exceptional vineyards is very large. Apart from the actual St-Émilion, there are also the so-called St-Emilion satellites, which consist of the 3,000 ha appellations of Puisseguin, Montagne, St-Georges, and Lussac. Here, grapes are not grown on the soil as heavily.

St-Émilion's geography is more varied, with a mix of low hills and flat plains, than the Médoc's wider and level landscape. The cleft in the limestone plateau directly south of the town is a significant topographical feature. It has produced slopes with easterly and southerly perspectives, which are referred to as the côtes. The best-rated vineyards of St-Émilion are typically located on the côtes, which are located between 60 and 80 meters above sea level, or on the 60 hectares of deep, gravelly soils that are close to the Pomerol border, which is located 5 kilometers west of the town at an elevation of 35 meters. There are several varieties of soil. The vineyards with the lowest quality rating are located on the flat terrain between the plateau and river, which makes up more than half of the entire region. This terrain is composed of a mixture of alluvial sands and gravels. In contrast, the côtes' soils are made of clays and loam that are produced from limestone.

St-Émilion ripens at somewhat higher temperatures and sooner than the Médoc because to its inland position. However, because of the broad Gironde Estuary and the lack of hills, the Atlantic Ocean's effect reaches well inland. This provides some protection from winter freeze and spring frost, however occasionally the weather can cause significant crop loss, as in April 1991. The MJT is 21.0°C, while the growing season day degrees and sunlight hours are 1,506 and 1,427, respectively. Melbourne, Victoria, and Denmark, Western Australia, are the most comparable Australian places in terms of the latter statistics. Rainfall throughout the growing season is 405 mm (54% of the total annual amount), which is little more than in the Australian sites listed before. June is considered a crucial month for potential yield since it is frequently chilly and rainy, which causes poor set, especially for Merlot. Additionally, bunch rot caused by severe rain during harvest might result in crop loss. The côtes benefit greatly from their south-facing slopes, which promote ripening and offer some shelter from frost.

Merlot is the predominant varietal, accounting for almost 60% of the planted area. Cabernet Sauvignon comes next in significance, followed by Cabernet Franc. Less than 15% of the land is planted to the latter, which needs the ideal settings to mature because it ripens and explodes later than Merlot or Cabernet Franc. Additionally, a tiny portion of Malbec exists (called locally as Cot). Typically, 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon are combined to create St-Émilion (encépagement). Nonetheless, some of the best locations—Chateau Figeac and Chateau Cheval Blanc, for example—have a higher percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc.

Panoramic view of Saint-Émilion

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Alsace Wine Region of France || History, Vineyards, Winemaking || Wine Region

Introduction

Alsace has always been in a quandary. Because of its precarious location on the border between Germany and France, the area was a tug-of-war for centuries. Today, visitors to Alsace may see how the interventions of two giant empires influenced the region's architecture and the presence of both the French and German languages.

The Alsace Wine Route is one of France's oldest wine routes, as well as one of its most attractive. The Alsace wine region will hypnotise you throughout your 170-kilometer drive with its breath-taking vistas and lovely vineyards. Alsace, France's wine region, is one of Europe's most charming wine regions.

History

The area was captured by Julius Caesar's Roman forces in the first century BCE and had been thoroughly Romanized by the time of the Alemanni invasion in the fifth century CE. However, the Alemanni were defeated by the Franks under Clovis in 496, and Alsace became a Frankish duchy. The territory was Christianized and colonised during Merovingian authority.

Alsace was inhabited by nomadic hunters in prehistoric times. The area became a heterogeneous border region between the French and German cultures and languages after being part of the Roman Empire's Germania Superior province. Long a centre of the German-speaking world, after the Thirty Years War, France acquired southern Alsace in 1648, with the majority of the remaining taken later in the century. Unlike in the rest of France, Protestants were allowed to practise their faith in Alsace even after the Edict of Fontainebleau of 1685, which removed their rights in the rest of France.

Alsace was seized by Germany after the 1870-71 Franco-Prussian War and became a formal "Emperor's Land" of the unified German Empire in 1871. Following World War-I, the victorious Allies separated the province from Germany, and it became part of the Third French Republic. After being seized and annexed by Germany during WWII, the Allies returned it to France at the end of the war.

Wine History

The numerous changes of nationality of the Alsace region, which has gone from France to Germany and vice versa several times throughout history, have had a significant impact on the history of Alsace wine. Because the Rhine provided a means of transportation for the wines, they were traded with other German wines in the early history of the Alsace wine business. Wine styles in Alsace and Germany varied for much of the post-World War II era, while Alsace wines remained completely fermented, that is, dry, to a significant extent because they were supposed to be matched with food. During the same period, Alsace witnessed a movement towards higher quality, which resulted in the awarding of AOC distinction.

Since the introduction of the VT and SGN designations in 1983, the difference between Alsace and Germany has widened as German wines have become drier and more powerful, while many Alsace wines have become sweeter, and late harvest and dessert style wines have been "rediscovered" in Alsace.

The total vineyard surface in Alsace has expanded in recent decades, whereas the total vineyard surface throughout France has dropped. Alsace vineyards covered 9,400 hectares (23,000 acres) in 1967, 11,750 hectares (29,000 acres) in 1982, and 15,300 hectares (38,000 acres) in 2007. Over the same time span, Pinot-gris increased the most, from 4% to 15% of the vineyard surface, while Sylvaner decreased the most.

Geography

Alsace is located in northern France, bordered by Germany on two sides and the Vosges mountains on the west. It is a historically turbulent region. It has formerly been a part of Germany (as Elsass), and its language and culture owe much to both countries. The majority of the village names and surnames are German.

The Vosges mountains enable the occurrence of good grape locations (47.5-49°N). The eastern side of the mountains has a distinct rain-shadow effect, resulting in less cloud and rain, lower relative humidity, and warmer temperatures than the lands immediately to the west and east. Alsace is one of central Europe's most fertile regions. The hills are often densely forested, primarily with fir, beech, and oak. The annual precipitation ranges from 20 to 28 inches (500 to 700 mm).

Alsace is densely populated (twice the national average) and has a well-developed metropolitan network, dominated by the cities of Strasbourg, Mulhouse, and Colmar. The population density in rural areas is among the greatest in France. Alsace is crossed by a network of highways, and Strasbourg is home to a regional airport. There is also a large port and industrial zone along the Rhine. Aside from being a canal, the Rhine is used to create hydroelectric electricity, and a nuclear power facility is located on its banks in Fessenheim.

Vineyards

Vineyards are typically found on moderate slopes between 175 and 420 metres in elevation. The aspect is predominantly east, but some of the best sites face south, such as those near Riquewihr. Colmar (located 8 kilometres south of Riquewihr at 188 metres altitude) has 1,231 growing season day degrees and 1,369 sunshine hours. Based on these criteria, the most comparable Australian regions are Hobart (Tasmania) and Leongatha (Victoria). The annual rainfall and growing season rainfall (April to October) are 355 mm and 502 mm, respectively.

The majority of the region's product is white wine. Riesling accounts for 20% of the planted area, followed by Traminer (20%), Pinot Blanc (18%), Sylvaner (15%), Pinot Gris (also known as Tokay in this region) 10%, Pinot Noir (9%), Muscats (Muscat Ottonel, Muscat Blanc) (4%), Auxerrois (2%), and Chasselas (2%). Only Riesling, Traminer, Pinot Gris, and Muscat Blanc are permitted for Grand Cru wines. Chasselas is only used for blending; the remaining varieties are sold as "varietal wines" with the variety clearly displayed on the label, which is unusual for French wines.

In recent years, the area committed to Riesling and Pinot Noir has grown at the expense of Sylvaner. Only the best sites for the relatively late-ripening Riesling are planted (generally a south to south-easterly aspect with well-drained, 'warm' soils). On less favourable sites, the earlier ripening varieties are planted. Riesling. Traminer and Sylvaner are almost non-existent in the rest of France.

In term of general design, vineyards look more German than French.

Vineyard and Winemaking practices

Alsace wines are classified as Alsace and Alsace Grand Cru for still white wines (both sweet and dry), and Crémant d'Alsace for sparkling. Almost all of the wine produced in this region falls under one of these three classifications. The Alsace Grand Cru wines are made from one of 51 preferred vineyards spread across the area.

The density of planting is 4,400 to 4,800 vines per ha, with rows 1.5 metres or wider. Pruning is generally done to canes with either a single Guyot (one 15 node cane per vine) or a double Guyot (two 8 node canes per vine). Although up to 12 nodes per square metre are allowed, in practise, fewer nodes are frequently preserved. The trellis is a VSP with a fruiting wire at 60 to 90 cm (it may be higher in frost-prone areas), five fixed and two adjustable foliage wires, and a fruiting wire at 60 to 90 cm (it may be higher in frost-prone areas).

Summer pruning and hedging are standard operations with a start as early as the first half of June. Leaf removal in the bunch zone is carried out in July to late August. Mechanical harvesting is becoming more common on the flatter sites.

The maximum authorised yield for Grand Cru classification is up to 60 hL/ha (about 8.5 t/ha), with additional yield permitted in strong years. Lower categories can produce up to 100 hl/ha (14 t/ha). On average, harvest begins with Pinot Blanc and Muscat Blanc in mid-September and ends with Riesling in mid-October. Although the region is distinguished by 'German' grape varietals, the wines differ markedly from their German counterparts: Alsatian versions are more full-bodied and have greater alcohol content.

Alsace is a tribute to endurance and outstanding wine artistry, from its turbulent history to its vibrant vineyards. Embark on the Alsace Wine Route to unearth centuries of legacy and appreciate the unique charm of this French-German treasure. Begin your adventure through Alsace's breath-taking landscapes and savour the wonderful flavours of the region's renowned wines. Join us in celebrating the cultural blend and terroir characteristics that make Alsace an unmissable destination for wine connoisseurs worldwide.

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