Wines of India || Indian Wines and Wineries, History || Wine Information

India's Wine Perspective

Wine may have originated in India in the 13th century BCE, according to historical and literary sources, but the modern Indian wine industry dates back to the early 1980s, when two pioneering industrialists and businessmen, Shymarao Chowgule and Kanwal Grover, set out to produce their own wines on Indian soil. Sula Vineyards, India's largest wine producer today, entered the market in 2000, symbolising the optimism of the period. In 2001, Maharashtra became the first state in India to implement a wine policy, resulting in the establishment of numerous new wineries. Three more states implemented wine policies: Madhya Pradesh and Tamil Nadu in 2006, and Karnataka in 2007.

The 2007-2008 financial crisis led numerous wineries to declare bankruptcy, including Chowgule's Chateau Indage, the largest winery at the time and best renowned for its Omar Khayyam sparkling wine. New substantial winery projects began in 2007, including Alpine Wineries, Fratelli Wines, Charosa Winery, Four Seasons, KRSMA Estates, Vallonné Vineyards, and SDU Winery. Pernod Ricard, Diageo, and Moët Hennessy are among the multinational beverage companies that have established a presence in India. Despite the obvious hurdles that the small Indian wine sector faces, financial investors have stepped in. The Indian Grape Processing Board was established in 2009, and India joined the OIV in 2011.

Indian Wine region and Climate

The Indian subcontinent is a wide expanse of land in South-East Asia with a diverse climate ranging from Jammu and Kashmir in the north to Tamil Nadu and Kerala in the south. The majority of wine production, however, occurs in two south Indian states: Maharashtra and Karnataka. As a result, the majority of Bordeaux's vineyards, which total 2,500 hectares (6,178 acres), are subtropical, with two different seasons: the wet summer months and the cooler dry winter.

Between May and September, the south-westerly monsoon produces the vast majority of the annual precipitation, followed by high temperatures that frequently exceed 30°C and, in some regions, approach 50°C. During the winter, there is usually little rain, and temperatures range from 35°C during the day to 15°C at night, providing much-needed diurnal temperature variety.

This has two ramifications for the vineyard. One is the absence of dormancy in the vines, which resume their growing cycle as soon as they are clipped after harvest. As a result, quality-conscious producers prune twice a year: after harvest in May and immediately following the monsoon, from early August to late September, before the new growing season begins. The other aspect is the reverse cycle of temperatures during the winter period: temperatures fall from the start of the growth season, reaching their lowest point in December, before rising again as the grapes ripen.

However, regional variance can be detected. The distance between the Equator in the south and the Arabian Sea in the west influences rainfall. For example, in Nashik, one of India's eight wine regions and home to the majority of commercially significant producers, the Western Ghats break the monsoon clouds first, dumping 3,500mm of rain in the Igatpuri area while the more inland sub-regions receive only 500mm. Nashik, India's wine capital, is also a wine tourism hotspot due to its convenient location: it is only 190 kilometres, or a 3.5-hour drive, north-east of metropolitan Mumbai and is one of the four centres for the Kumbh Mela, a mass pilgrimage held every twelve years in which Hindus congregate to cleanse themselves of sin in the river.

Altitude influences both average temperatures and the magnitude of diurnal temperature variation. Bangalore and the South, a wine area in Karnataka with an average altitude of 950m, has more temperate summer temperatures than Nashik, which is at 600m. As a result, the temperature difference between day and night decreases slightly, affecting grape ripening.

Indian grape varieties and different Wine styles

Though Bangalore Blue and Bangalore Purple are native Indian grapes, they are V vinifera and V labrusca hybrids with a very foxy flavour, making them only appropriate for sub-entry-level wine.

Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Shiraz are the four most widely produced kinds. This could be attributed to the influence of foreign advisors, such as Michel Rolland of Bordeaux, as well as the styles in which they can be manufactured. Chenin Blanc's adaptability in terms of residual sugar suits the Indian palate, as does the fruit-forward character of the Cabernet-Shiraz combination, which is considered India's quintessential red blend with luscious fruits and velvety tannins.

The remaining grapes planted in India are divided into three groups based on their origin: French, Italian, and other kinds. These include Viognier and Malbec, all of which have enormous promise, as well as Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, both of which struggle to produce commercially acceptable volumes, despite the fact that Chardonnay is increasingly being produced with good results. Sangiovese is growing more popular among Italian grape types, as are Riesling and Tempranillo.

There are stylistic differences between Indian and Western wine styles. The former includes constantly off-dry wines, which suit the spicy nature of Indian cuisine; Indian port, which is a problematic category for naming and quality reasons, but quenches the thirst of the low-income consumer for sweetness and alcohol; wine coolers, which are designed to convert beer drinkers; and sub-entry-level wines, which may be technically impeccable but are completely unsuitable for the Western palate.

The Western styles span from dry still wines to pink and effervescent to sweet, late-harvest, vin de passerillage, and santo. Premium wines are frequently barrel aged, with American oak being the most prevalent, while French oak is also used. Bottle-fermented sparkling wine, often made from Chenin Blanc or Shiraz for the rosé, is becoming increasingly popular among Indians. These Western-style wines are receiving an increasing number of plaudits at international wine competitions and should be sought out if you want to sample Indian wines.