Is the Michelin Man ready to arrive into wine country and take parking spot? || Michelin in Wine || Wine News

The announcement that Michelin, the gold standard of restaurant ratings, is moving into winery evaluations has surely created interest in the food and drink media. Some people are afraid, some are unclear, but the majority of us are just fascinated. When an institution that has changed how the world eats for over 125 years shifts its focus to wine, it is sure to cause debate.

Naturally, several questions arise. Will Michelin dominate wine criticism as it has restaurants? Is the iconic 100-point score finally on its way out? What about long-time, on-the-ground reviewers like me? Will we be replaced by a super-panel of jet-setting wine experts?

At the present, it's difficult to say. Details are still few, and this uncertainty is exacerbated by the fact that the wine business is going through a difficult period. A recent news release offered some basics: Michelin will assess vineyards on a scale of one, two, or three grapes: "very good," "excellent," and "exceptional." There will also be a "Selected" category for dependable, consistent-quality wineries, comparable to Michelin's Bib Gourmand for restaurants.

The evaluations will be based on five major criteria: agricultural quality, winemaking technique, expression of uniqueness (which appears to mean terroir), balance in finished wines, and consistency between vintages, with an emphasis on wines that age gracefully. Tastings will be conducted by panels comprised of former sommeliers, specialised reviewers, and former winemakers.

That's really all we know about the "how." According to the San Francisco Chronicle, winery inspectors will not be anonymous, as Michelin's famously secretive restaurant reviewers are. Given that many top-tier estates do not encourage drop-in visitors, this strategy makes sense.

In terms of "where," Michelin will begin operations in Bordeaux and Burgundy in 2026, which should come as no surprise to anybody familiar with the wine industry.

The more intriguing question is, "why?"

On the surface, wineries appear to be a natural extension of Michelin's hospitality universe, which includes restaurants since 1900 and hotels since the 1920s. Michelin introduced "Keys" to assess hotels last year, replicating its Star system. Wine seems like the natural next step.

Still, there is a significant difference. When Michelin began assessing restaurants and hotels, it was striking new ground. For decades, however, wine criticism has been a crowded field. So, will Michelin focus only on well-known brands, or will it utilise its power to discover new producers and stories?

Plenty of open questions.

This change might alternatively be interpreted as a clever rearrangement of existing components. Six years ago, Michelin purchased Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, the newspaper that popularised the now-common 100-point system. Whether you like it or not, that approach still reigns supreme in the wine market; I personally assign hundreds of such ratings through blind tastings each month. Michelin now appears to be ready to provide an alternative.

Restaurant and wine reviews are not the same sport. Restaurants use a variety of ingredients, processes, and styles that are at least somewhat objective. Wine, on the other hand, lives and dies according to perception and palate. That is why blind tasting is so important—it keeps things fair and frequently surprising.

I can't tell you how many times blind tastings have changed my assumptions, both ways. Legendary growers occasionally fall short, and lesser-known wines quietly outperform. Those times are precisely why wine criticism is so intriguing.

So yet, Michelin hasn't said much about what this implies for the Wine Advocate, other than to emphasise that the Michelin name has immense worldwide weight. Many insiders believe that elements of the Advocate—such as its knowledge, data, or tasting resources—will be included into the new system. After all, why reinvent the wheel when you have a perfectly fine one?

It's also feasible that both techniques can coexist: Wine Advocate will continue to score bottles by bottle, while Michelin would provide a larger, producer-level stamp of approval.

And, surely, there is the commercial aspect to consider. Michelin's restaurant guidelines are partially funded by tourism organisations looking for exposure. A similar paradigm may arise in wine, with regional wine groups contributing to the bill—though traditionally, those budgets have been a bit tight.

Whatever shape this all takes, one thing is certain: Michelin's entry will bring a greater focus to wine. That's a nice thing. I've always felt that more reputable voices lead to better-informed customers.

Wine could use all of the good attention it can get right now. If an internationally acknowledged authority reminds people that wine is part of a healthy lifestyle, it benefits everyone—from vineyard workers and winemakers to reviewers like myself who get to taste and tell the tale.

Welcome to the tasting bar, Michelin Man.

Jim Beam’s Production Pause: Politics, Tariffs, or a Market Correction? || Jim Beam 2026 || Bourbon Whiskey

Based on a public discussion responding to the New York Times article

“Jim Beam Halts Production, as Whiskey Market Struggles”

When The New York Times reported that Jim Beam would halt production at its flagship distillery for all of 2026, the headline immediately sparked speculation. Was this a failure of management? A consequence of shifting consumer habits? Or the result of government policy—particularly tariffs introduced or escalated during the Trump administration?

A long and often heated public discussion followed. Stripping away the political rhetoric, the conversation reveals something more nuanced: Jim Beam is not “failing,” and no single government official can reasonably be blamed. Instead, the situation reflects a perfect storm of long-term structural changes and short-term trade disruptions in the global spirits market.

Jim Beam Is Not Failing

One of the most consistent points across the discussion is that pausing production is not the same as insolvency or collapse.

Jim Beam:

• Is remaining open to the public

• Has surplus inventory accumulated during the COVID-era boom

• Is using the pause to upgrade and modernize facilities

The decision appears tactical, not existential. In fact, industry observers note that many large producers anticipated a post-pandemic correction after two decades of near-continuous growth.

From 2004 to 2024, American whiskey sales grew from roughly $1.4 billion to $5.2 billion, averaging around 5% annual growth. Such expansion was unlikely to continue indefinitely.

Declining Consumption and Changing Preferences

One major theme in the discussion is changing consumer behaviour, particularly among younger drinkers.

Key trends include:

• Overall alcohol consumption declining since the COVID peak

• Gen Z drinking significantly less than previous generations

• Younger consumers “trading up” — buying fewer bottles, but choosing premium, high-proof products

This shift is especially problematic for brands like Jim Beam, which rely heavily on high-volume, lower-priced products such as Jim Beam White Label. When consumers drink less and spend selectively, mass-market spirits are often the first to feel the impact.

Competition Has Never Been Fiercer

Another structural factor is intensifying competition.

The U.S. now has an estimated 3,000–4,000 craft distilleries, many of which benefit from:

• Local loyalty

• Direct-to-consumer marketing

• Online visibility and niche branding

This fragmentation erodes market share and margins for legacy producers. Even without tariffs or consumption declines, the competitive landscape alone would pressure large-volume producers.

The Tariff Question: Secondary but Real

Tariffs are where the conversation becomes most contentious.

Some participants argue tariffs are a minor factor. Others point to clear industry evidence that trade policy has materially harmed exports.

What is not disputed:

• U.S. whiskey exports are down about 9% overall

• Canada, once the largest export market for American whiskey, has reduced imports by as much as 90% year-over-year

• Several Canadian provinces have effectively boycotted American spirits, boosting domestic Canadian whisky and wine

In 2025, 57 alcohol industry groups, including the Distilled Spirits Council of the United States (DISCUS) and Beam Suntory, signed a formal letter warning that tariffs and retaliatory trade measures were:

• Costing billions in lost sales

• Suppressing export demand

• Threatening tens of thousands of U.S. jobs

This makes it difficult to claim tariffs have “no measurable impact.” However, the discussion also shows broad agreement that tariffs alone did not create Jim Beam’s inventory surplus—they likely accelerated an already weakening trend.

No Single Villain, No Simple Answer

The most defensible conclusion from the discussion is also the least sensational:

• No named government official is solely responsible

• Jim Beam is not failing

• The production halt reflects inventory management amid a cyclical downturn

As one participant summarized:

“A perfect storm of ongoing weakening, accelerated by tariffs.”

COVID-era overproduction, declining consumption, generational shifts, increased competition, and trade disruptions all intersected at once. Any attempt to reduce the situation to a single political figure or policy oversimplifies a fundamentally complex market correction.

Final Takeaway

Jim Beam’s 2026 production pause is best understood as a strategic response to structural change, not a collapse.

For the global spirits industry, the lesson is clear:

• Growth driven by exceptional circumstances (like a pandemic) eventually corrects

• Consumer preferences evolve faster than legacy brands expect

• Trade policy can amplify—but rarely create—market downturns

In short, this is not a story of failure. It is a case study in how macro trends, micro preferences, and geopolitics collide in mature consumer industries.

Keywords

• Jim Beam production halt

• bourbon industry analysis

• whiskey market correction

• American whiskey exports

• distillery inventory management

• spirits industry trends

• bourbon demand decline

• trade tariffs and whiskey exports

How sommeliers train their nose? || The 54 aroma kit (Le Nez du Vin) || Wine Tasting

Introduction

In the sophisticated world of wine tasting, there is more than just taste that is employed by sommeliers to determine the profile of a wine by industry professionals. Smell plays a significant role and developing a sophisticated sense of smell is crucial for industry professionals. The "Le Nez du Vin" (The Nose of Wine) aroma kit is one such tool that has been an indispensable aid in this endeavor.

Kit Manual 

It considers what 54-aroma kit significance, composition, application, and influences the professional competency of sommeliers and wine consumers.

The Science of Smell and Wine Tasting

Aroma Bottles

To appreciate the importance of the 54-aroma kit, an understanding of the role of smell in wine tasting is necessary. While the taste buds identify basic tastes like sweet, sour, salty, and bitter, the nose detects thousands of subtle scents that establish a wine's complexity, character, and depth.
When you swirl a glass of wine, volatile compounds attach to olfactory receptors, creating a bouquet of aromas that are described using terms like "blackberry," "cedar," "leather," or "violet." Yet identifying those aromas is a learned ability—a shortfall the 54-aroma kit is designed to fill.

The 54-Aroma Kit: Ingredients and Functionality

Different Aroma Categories

The 54-aroma kit, normally referred to by its brand name "Le Nez du Vin," was developed by French wine expert and educator Jean Lenoir. It consists of 54 vials, each containing a concentrated aroma commonly found in wines. These aromas range from fruits and flowers to spices, woods, and earthy notes, including:

• Fruits: Pear, blackcurrant, citrus, cherry
• Flowers: Acacia, rose, violet
• Spices: Clove, cinnamon, vanilla
• Woods: Oak, cedar
• Earthy Notes: Leather, truffle, mushroom

Along with the vials are flashcards featuring illustrations and extensive descriptions of the scents, including their relation to particular grape varieties, regions, and styles of wine.

Aroma Flashcards

Classifying Wine Aromas

Wine Aromas

Wine aromas fall into three general categories:

1. Primary Aromas: These originate from the grape itself and are fruity and floral, e.g., blackcurrant, melon, and violet. For example, blackcurrant is generally associated with Cabernet Sauvignon.
2. Secondary Aromas: These result from the processes of winemaking like fermentation and oak aging. Examples include vanilla and butter, common in Chardonnays that have undergone malolactic fermentation.
3. Tertiary Aromas: These develop during aging and include complex aromas like tobacco, mushroom, and leather, which are the result of chemical reactions during the aging of the wine.

Training Methodology and Benefits

The 54-aroma kit gives a structured study program designed to create olfactory memory, along with developing sensory skills. Sommeliers use it as follows:

1. Cultivating Olfactory Consciousness

Sommeliers begin by familiarizing themselves with the scent of each vial, taking mental note of scents.

2. Practicing Identification

They practice by recognizing scents unlabeled, schooling their noses to pick up subtle odors in complex mixtures.

3. Linking Aromas to Wine Varietals

Over time, they associate specific aromas with grape varieties, wine styles, or aging regimes, for instance, vanilla with wines aged in oak or blackcurrant with Cabernet Sauvignon.

4. Sharpening Descriptive Skills

The kit enhances their ability to communicate wine aromas during tastings, education, and professional evaluations.

Beyond the Basics: Wine Faults Kit and Emerging Tools

Wine Faults Aroma Kit

Whereas the 54-aroma kit is interested in nice aromas, the wine faults kit is interested in common faults like:

• Cork Taint (TCA): Smells like wet cardboard, caused by fungi interacting with certain chemicals.
• Brettanomyces: Produces "horse sweat" or "barnyard" flavors, either a fault or complexity additive depending on concentration.
• Vegetal Notes: Overly green aromas that evoke unripe grapes.

Emerging technologies, including electronic noses and thermal-based olfaction displays, are being integrated with traditional aroma kits, which further facilitates sensory training for winemakers and sommeliers.

Key Studies and Applications

Research highlights the contribution of wine aroma kits in wine education:

1. Olfactory Learning Equipment: Literature underscores tools like aroma kits in viticulture and enology teaching that aids student in identifying odors (Di Fuccio et al., 2021).
2. Sensorial Marketing: Scent kits are used to engage consumers and to educate influencers, sommeliers, and journalists (Maio, 2022).
3. Le Nez Du Vin and Odor Recognition: The kit remains a component of sensory training programs around the world, enhancing recognition and recall of the most important wine aromas (Battista et al., 2018).

Practical Tips for Using the 54-Aroma Kit

1. Take Your Time: Allow a few minutes per fragrance to fully appreciate it.
2. Keep a Diary: Record your impressions and progress.
3. Practice Regularly: Practice at regular time.
4. Pair with Wine Tasting: Use the kit together with real wine tastings to reinforce skills.
5. Find Daily Scents: Expand your vocabulary of scents by exploring odors in your surroundings, garden, and kitchen.

Accessibility and Broader Applications

One of the greatest advantages of the 54-aroma kit is that it is affordable. While high-end wine tasting on a frequent basis can be expensive, the kit offers a low-cost means of sensory training. Furthermore, its application is not confined to wine alone but can also be extended to other beverages like beer, whiskey, and coffee, and to careers like perfumery and culinary arts.

Conclusion

The 54-aroma kit is a cornerstone of wine education, offering a systematic way of exploring the intricate world of wine aromas. Combined with supporting tools like the wine faults kit and complemented by new technologies, it constitutes a total solution to mastering the art and science of wine tasting. So, whether you are a seasoned pro or an enthusiast beginner, they can add to the enjoyment and your understanding of wine, one scent at a time.

How fermentation works in Winemaking? (feat. Oray Wine) || Fermentation 101 || Wine Making

Fermentation is at the core of winemaking, changing grape juice into the wines we enjoy—whether it's a crisp white wine, the greatest red wine, or a bottle of joyous champagne. This natural process is powered by yeast, namely Saccharomyces cerevisiae, which transforms carbohydrates to alcohol and flavours. Winemakers frequently fine-tune the process by inoculating yeast and adding nutrients like di ammonium phosphate to guarantee a smooth and thorough fermentation. The aeration method can also help maintain the yeast healthy and prevent typical problems like slow fermentation and yeast infections. Whether you're interested in the science of fermentation or want to improve your craft, understanding these phases is critical to producing wines that truly shine.

Content:

1.       Activation of dry yeast (Rehydration Procedure)

2.       Yeast starter culture

3.       What is yeast assimilable nitrogen (YAN)

4.       Role of Diammonium phosphate (DAP)

5.       Aeration process

Activation of dry yeast (Rehydration procedure)

Yeast hydration recommendations might differ across vendors. In the first case, carefully follow the manufacturer's instructions as outlined on each yeast sachets. The suggestions provided here constitute a simplified generic yeast hydration approach that will improve the hydration and fermentation capacity of most Saccharomyces cerevisiae cultures. This general approach may not produce excellent results with non-Saccharomyces cerevisiae or other non-Saccharomyces cultures. Furthermore, specialised yeast reactivation preparations can increase yeast function when inoculating poor (very clarified/high °Brix/°Baume) juices or musts. For more precise information, contact your yeast supply or manufacturer.

Equipment and materials required

·         Water (Clean water/ RO water)

·         Yeast

·         Grape juice (No Preservatives)

·         Thermometer

·         Vessel with large surface for hydration 

Inoculation

Following the manufacturer's suggestions. The yeast producer has discovered the best method for rehydrating and activating a certain variety of dried yeast.

An inoculum of 0.25 g yeast/L (25 g/HL) juice is recommended to reach a minimum of 5×106 viable cells/ml. This is based on the ADWY which has 2×1010 cells/g. Because of their reduced liquid capacity, high solids musts are often infected with 0.20 g yeast/kg (approx. 20 g/HL).

For highly clarified juices, high °Brix/°Baume juices/musts, or musts with inhibitory residual SO2 (>10-15 mg/L free SO2 / >30-50 total SO2), a higher inoculum rate of up to double the standard rate is permitted. Oxidative procedures, including the use of hydrogen peroxide, can be employed to reduce excessive residual SO2.

Rehydration of Yeast

·         Pre-heat water at 35-40^oC; check the temperature properly by thermometer.

·         Add that water to the vessel.

·         Rehydrate ADWY by sprinkling it slowly and evenly over the surface of 5-10 times its weight in water (e.g. for 500 g sachet of yeast by suspending in 2.5 to 5 L).

·         Avoid forming yeast clumps. Clumping results in yeast that is neither wetted or rehydrated, and so inactive. Gentle stirring (do not use a powerful mechanical instrument, since this might harm the cells) can assist disseminate certain strains with hydrophobic qualities.

·         Allow to stand for 10-15 minutes.

Amelioration step

·         Stir the slightly settled, rehydrated yeast.

·         The yeast culture should be gradually chilled to within 5-10°C of the juice/must to be inoculated; this improvement procedure appears to be especially significant for difficult-to-ferment juices/musts.

·         Cooling can be accomplished by gradually adding adequate amounts of clean water or juice (with low residual SO2) from the tank to be infected over the course of 10-20 minutes. Steps of 5-10°C are common.

·         When using just water, the yeast should be injected promptly after the chilling processes are finished to minimise cell inactivation. If this is not feasible, add an equivalent amount of juice to the yeast culture and inoculate within a few hours, before the sugars diminish.

Inoculation

·         To give the yeast culture an edge over indigenous strains, the juice/must must be equal to or greater than 15°C when injected.

·         Active fermentation normally starts within 24 hours. If not, examine a juice/must sample under a microscope to determine the proportion of budding and live yeast cells. If these indices are low, a fresh yeast culture may need to be reinoculated.

·         Once active fermentation begins, the fermentation temperature can be adjusted within a narrow range. Temperature variations greater than 3-5°C per day have been shown to partly inactivate budding yeast.

Yeast should be stored precisely according to the manufacturer's guidelines, typically refrigerated; non-optimal storage conditions can result in activity loss, which might lead to unforeseen fermentation difficulties. Do not open yeast sachets between vintages. For difficult to ferment juices/musts, it is recommended to utilise fresh batches of yeast made using unique reactivation (inactivated yeast) preparations.

Yeast Starter Culture

To prepare your starter culture, make diluted juice:

·         Mix 1 litre of juice with 1 litre of chlorine-free water to make 2 litres of juice at about 15 degrees Brix. Use clean water. If there is any chlorine, remove it by boiling or sparging.

·         Maintain low SO₂ levels (≤ 5 mg/L free, ≤ 50 mg/L total). If it is too high, you can reduce it with hydrogen peroxide.

Sterilise everything.

·         Transfer the juice to a sterile 2 L container (such as a conical flask or bottle). Sterilise using heat, 70% alcohol, or 2% SO₂ solution.

Add Nutrients:

·         to keep the yeast happy, add 2 grammes per litre of diammonium phosphate (DAP) to the juice.

Inoculate with yeast:

·         Transfer yeast from the agar slope to the juice. Rinse the slope with about 5 mL of sterilised juice before adding it to the juice mixture.

·         Aerate with filtered air (50-100 mL/min) and keep the temperature between 20-25°C. Warmer temperatures equal quicker growth!

·         Check the yeast every 8 hours. Once it reaches ~2 × 10⁸ cells/mL, it is suitable for usage.

Barrel Inoculation

·         Gradually increase the temperature of the beginning culture to match the juice (no more than a 2°C variation per hour and a maximum 5°C difference at inoculation).

·         Use 2 L of starting culture per 200 L of juice for a solid inoculation rate of ~2 × 10⁶ cells/ml.

Scaling for large quantity

For ≤1,000 L of Juice:

·         Make more diluted juice at 15°Brix and modify the pH (3.1-3.4) and YAN (>180 mg/L) to maintain the yeast thriving.

·         Add the starting culture to larger volumes:
2 L culture plus 2 L juice equals 400 L batch.
2 L culture + 8 L juice equals 1,000 L batch.

·         Continue to aerate (250-500 mL air per minute) and keep an eye on the yeast. Inoculate when the concentration reaches around 2 × 10⁸ cells/ml.

For >1000L of juice:

·         Use a yeast propagator to expand in 10x increments (e.g., 2 L → 20 L → 200 L → 2,000 L). Each step takes 1-2 days, so plan ahead.

·         If necessary, cool the culture to ~5°C and continuously aerating to prevent yeast from settling.

Yeast Assimilable Nitrogen (YAN)

Nitrogen is essential for yeast development and good fermentation. It has an impact on fermentation pace, completeness, and the sensory profile of the wine, such as the development of fruity or reductive qualities. Yeast Assimilable Nitrogen (YAN) analysis allows winemakers to check nitrogen levels in grapes, musts, or juices and treat shortfalls with inorganic solutions such as di-ammonium phosphate (DAP) or organic yeast nutrients. Winemakers may improve the flavour character of their wines by efficiently regulating nitrogen levels. However, adding too much nitrogen, particularly from inorganic sources, raises the chance of ester taint development.

YAN is estimated by combining measurements of ammonia (NH₃) and alpha-amino nitrogen (αAN) utilising enzymatic tests, spectroscopy, or chromatography. YAN levels in Australia typically vary from 50 to 450 mg/L, with 100-200 mg/L being the most frequent. White wines normally require at least 150 mg/L of YAN, while red wines require at least 100 mg/L. Higher YAN levels (250-350 mg/L) are good for clean and fruity flavours, particularly in Chardonnay, but too much nitrogen might harm the wine's fragrance and leave residual nitrogen in the final product.

Sampling for YAN analysis is most successful when conducted close to harvest. Juice samples are recommended; however, pulp and skin samples may be more suitable for skin-contact cultivars. Samples should be obtained in cool to mild temperatures 1-2 weeks before harvest, excluding seeds. To guarantee reliable findings, samples sent for examination should be cleared and treated with sulphur dioxide. Nitrogen levels are carefully managed throughout the process to maintain optimal yeast vitality, consistent fermentation, and high-quality wine production.

Role of Di-ammonium Phosphate (DAP)

Di-ammonium phosphate (DAP) is essential for providing yeast with the nutrients it requires to flourish, particularly during the rehydration phase. Consider rehydration to be the yeast's "wake-up call" following dormancy—it's a critical period in which they prepare for the hard job of fermentation. Adding DAP during this stage provides yeast with a readily available source of nitrogen, which is required for the production of proteins, enzymes, and other cellular components necessary for growth and activity. Without sufficient nitrogen, yeast may struggle to operate, resulting in slow or even blocked fermentations.

Using DAP during rehydration also prepares yeast for a smoother start when it enters the must or juice. It reduces stress on the yeast, allowing them to remain robust and resilient in the face of demanding fermentation circumstances like as high sugar levels or cold temperatures. By ensuring that the yeast is well-nourished from the start, you not only improve fermentation efficiency but also assist to avoid the creation of off-flavors caused by stressed or underperforming yeast.

However, it's important to note that DAP should be taken with caution. Too much nitrogen might result in undesirable scents such as ester taints in the finished wine. So, it's important about striking the right balance—enough to nurture the yeast but not so much that the wine loses its flavour.

Aeration Process

Aeration is an important stage in winemaking that can improve the fermentation process and the overall quality of the wine. Winemakers may increase fermentation efficiency, minimise unwanted traits, and bring forth more brilliant flavours by gradually adding oxygen at important stages. Aeration in red wines helps create "red fruit" flavours, smoothes the taste by lowering astringency, and reduces off-putting reductive smells. It is essential for accelerating fermentation in white wines, especially in difficult batches.

Understanding the correct equipment and processes is essential for any winemaker wishing to experiment with aeration techniques. There are several ways to improve your winemaking process, from selecting the right equipment to knowing when and how to inject oxygen. Many wineries, regardless of size, have found success in using these principles, honing their craft, and producing greater outcomes in flavour and style.

To understand more about aeration and how to use it in winemaking, check read my blog post, Introducing Oxygen to Your Wine Fermentation. It includes everything from basic advice to sophisticated insights that will help you master this critical practice.

To summarise, fermentation is the core of winemaking, converting grape juice into the wines we know and love. Understanding the role of yeast—specifically Saccharomyces cerevisiae—is critical for making the greatest red wine, crisp white wine, or even champagne. Yeast inoculation, adequate nutrient utilisation (such as di ammonium phosphate), and the aeration process all contribute to a smooth fermentation trip. Paying attention to these factors not only avoids yeast infections, but also improves the taste and quality of your wine. By mastering these components, you may improve your winemaking talents and produce wines that are genuinely unique. Cheers to discovering the fascinating realm of fermentation—your path to creating excellent wines!

 Featured Article from Oray Wine:

What is Cock & Féret?

Cock et Féret was an important directory of Bordeaux chateaux (wine estates) which initially published in 1845 as Bordeaux, its Wines, and the Claret Country by Charles Cocks, an Englishman who died in 1854.

Féret translated this directory into Bordeaux et ses vins in 1850. He attached particular care to the categorization of wines from the Bordeaux region according to their qualities and value. Read more...

 

 

Why Do We Age Our Wines? || Aging and Maturation || Wine Making

Wine aging is an ancient practice that continues to captivate the curiosity of wine enthusiasts and professionals alike. From historical traditions to modern cellar techniques, aging wine serves a variety of purposes, encompassing chemical evolution, enhanced sensory experiences, and even investment opportunities. This article delves into the rationale behind aging wine, explores its processes, and addresses its implications for both students and professionals in the field.

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Myths About Aging Wine

One prevalent myth is that all wines improve with age. In reality, most wines are crafted for immediate consumption and do not possess the characteristics necessary for prolonged aging. These characteristics typically include intense flavor profiles and natural preservative qualities, such as high acidity or tannins. Only a small fraction of wines are considered "ageworthy," and even these follow a bell curve of optimal aging: too young, just right, and too old.

For aspiring sommeliers and winemakers, developing the ability to evaluate a wine’s aging potential is an invaluable skill. Academic programs, such as the WSET Level 3 Award in Wines, focus on teaching this through structured tastings and theory-based learning.

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What Happens During Wine Aging?

Aging transforms wine at both the chemical and sensory levels. Initially, young wines are dominated by primary aromas—fresh fruits, flowers, and herbs. Over time, these aromas diminish due to the breakdown of compounds such as geraniol (responsible for rose aromas) and isoamyl acetate (banana aromas). In their place, tertiary aromas emerge, shaped by subtle oxidation and complex chemical reactions.

Examples of tertiary aromas include:

• Walnut and caramel: Resulting from oxidation.
• Almond and honey: Developed through reactions with oxygen-exposed compounds.

Simultaneously, the wine’s structure evolves. In red wines, tannins—known for their mouth-drying quality—undergo polymerization, creating a smoother texture. Whites, on the other hand, may develop a waxy or oily mouthfeel, adding layers to their complexity. For wine students and professionals, understanding these transitions helps craft wines that reach their peak expression.

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The Art and Philosophy of Aging Wine

Aging wine is more than a chemical transformation; it’s an art that embodies patience, curiosity, and reverence for time. Renowned wine collector Queena Wong likens the process to human growth: "A baby is different from an adolescent and a mature adult. The DNA is the same, but maturity brings out its pure essence." This poetic analogy highlights why aging wine resonates deeply with connoisseurs and collectors.

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Which Wines Benefit from Aging?

Not all wines are suitable for aging, and for some, aging is intrinsic to their identity. Certain styles, such as Vintage Champagne, Madeira, or Barolo, are aged extensively before release, enhancing their complexity. Others, like red Rioja Gran Reserva or Vin Jaune, must meet legal aging requirements before entering the market. These extended aging processes often influence their premium price points.

Examples of wines suited for aging:

• Vintage Champagne
• Grand Cru Classé Bordeaux
• Tokaji Aszú

Conversely, light, aromatic wines like Moscato d’Asti or Provence Rosé are designed for immediate enjoyment and are not meant for long-term storage.

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Practicalities of Aging Wine

Proper storage is crucial for aging wine. Key conditions include:

1. Temperature: Cool and constant, ideally between 10°C and 15°C (50°F to 59°F).
2. Light and Vibrations: Avoid direct light and movement to maintain wine stability.

Urban dwellers may face challenges in creating optimal conditions at home. In such cases, temperature-controlled storage facilities or professional wine brokers can provide a solution.

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Aging Wine as an Investment

For some, aging wine transcends personal enjoyment and becomes a financial endeavor. High-demand wines with iconic status, such as super-premium Bordeaux or Burgundy, are often sought as investment pieces. The principle is simple: as these wines age and become rarer, their value increases. However, investing in wine requires meticulous research, as market trends and consumer preferences can shift over time.

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Aging for Memories

Beyond taste and profit, aging wine can serve a sentimental purpose. Bottles from milestone years—birthdays, anniversaries, or significant events—carry memories that surpass their chemical composition. These wines symbolize cherished moments, creating an emotional connection that no price tag can define.

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Conclusion

Aging wine is a nuanced practice that blends science, art, and personal choice. For wine professionals and enthusiasts, understanding why and how wines are aged provides insight into their evolution and opens the door to enriching sensory and emotional experiences. Whether for taste, tradition, or investment, aging wine continues to reflect the timeless allure of this ancient beverage.

Phenology Bud Dormancy and Budburst || Understanding grapevine growth || Viticulture and Enology.

Viticulture is the science and practice of grape growing. Among the many intriguing features of this tour, phenology—the study of plant growth stages—takes the spotlight. The shift from bud dormancy to budburst is a critical stage in a grapevine's lifetime, marking the start of active development. This essential transition has an impact not just on harvest quality, but also vineyard management techniques.

In this article, we will dig into the complexities of grapevine phenology, specifically the variables that influence bud dormancy and cause budburst. Whether you're a viticulturist looking for the best yield or an enologist curious about the science behind your favourite vintage, this book will highlight the critical relationship between nature and nurture in viticulture.

In temperate climes, vines are often thought to be dormant during the winter. Although the vine as a whole can be considered dormant when it lacks leaves, the stage of bud dormancy is of greatest interest for vine management.

Bud Dormancy

An individual grapevine bud experiences three stages of dormancy: conditional dormancy, organic dormancy, and enforced hibernation. (It should be noted that these phases have been given different names).

Conditional dormancy refers to the status of freshly developed buds during the spring and summer.

Regardless of good conditions, buds will not burst during organic dormancy, which is most intense in the beginning of autumn. The change from conditional to organic dormancy occurs in January (in the southern hemisphere), when the days begin to shorten, coinciding with periderm formation and a slowdown or cessation of shoot growth.

When buds are in the third phase of enforced dormancy, they do not burst in the field due to insufficient air temperature. A grapevine bud's transition from organic to enforced dormancy requires extremely little freezing (unlike most other woody perennial plants), therefore organic dormancy in each bud lasts just 2 to 3 months. As a result, buds are forced to go into dormancy for the majority of the winter. For enforced dormancy to be lifted and budburst to occur, the air temperature must exceed a specific minimum that varies by variety.

Whole vine winter dormancy

Vine leaves drop off around the conclusion of the growing season in autumn. As the temperature drops more, vines go through a series of activities to prepare for 'shutting down' during the winter months. These changes include:

• decreased water levels in tissues,
• increased soluble proteins in bark,
• enzyme adjustments for temperature variations,
• changes to cell membrane functionality.

Vines prepare themselves with the biological equivalent of 'anti-freeze' to guarantee that live tissue stays for the next spring's growth. When vine tissues freeze, the cells may rupture or damage cell contents or membranes, destroying enzymes and other proteins that control metabolic activity. Freezing damage to buds can have an impact on the vine's future growth and fruitfulness.

Even while dormant, vines remain active. They do not photosynthesise since they lack leaves, but they do respire to perform essential metabolic activities. At this stage, carbohydrates accumulated in the roots, trunk, and cordons from the previous growing season, primarily as starch, serve as their source of energy. Dormant vines must rely on stored leaf fall reserves to survive. For the first month of spring, fresh shoot growth is entirely dependent on these reserves.

Budburst

Dormant buds grow as a result of the start of expansion of internodes, leaves, and other structures created in the previous season, which was initially caused by cell expansion. Later cell division occurs when the apical meristem resumes activity and new nodes emerge.

Once buds are driven into dormancy, they just require sufficiently high temperatures to burst. Note that buds will reach this stage in most temperate areas by early winter, therefore buds may burst prematurely in the event of unseasonably warm weather. However, there is always the risk of low temperature harm to bursting buds and new shoots.

Factors affecting the timing of Budburst

1. Temperature: Temperature has a significant impact on each variety, with a consistent summation beginning in mid-winter. Budburst occurs earlier as temperatures rise in the later part of the winter. The number of buds that burst per day is significantly associated with the day's mean air temperature.
2. Variety: Budburst patterns remain consistent across climates and seasons. For example, Chardonnay always explodes somewhat early, while Cabernet Sauvignon always bursts quite late.
3. Root temperature: Budburst date correlates positively with soil temperature in the root zone. A soil temperature of 25^oC will result in earlier budburst than 12^oC. This relationship affects vineyard site selection and soil management. Well-drained, rocky or calcareous soils warm up faster in spring than wetter, clay soils, therefore they are favoured in cool areas to extend the growth season and enhance the likelihood of ripening.
4. Other factors: Other aspects to consider include rootstock genotype, previous season's cultural practices, timing of winter pruning, and use of growth regulators such hydrogen cyanamide to impact budburst.

Useful references:

• Mullins, M.G., Bouquet, A., Williams, E. 1992. Biology of the grapevine. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
• Nicholas, P. 2003. Soil, irrigation and nutrition. Grape Production Series No. 2. Adelaide: Winetitles.
• Gladstones, J. 1992. Viticulture and Environment. Adelaide: Winetitles.
• Coombe, B.G., Dry, P.R. 1992. Viticulture Volume 2, Adelaide: Winetitles.

Product or service information is offered to help the viticulture industry learn about available resources and should not be regarded as a recommendation.

Keywords: Grapevine, Phenology, Dormancy, Bud dormancy, Budburst, Viticulture.

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